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Old 03-31-2012, 03:57 PM   #1
pauldun170
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FYI:
The kick stand switch was removed prior and the wires had been poorly spliced.
All my shenanigans today are with the wires unspliced and hanging there.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:35 PM   #2
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The battery may not be bad, it could be it just needs a charge. Most batteries have been sitting around for a while before you get it and they typically recommend throwing them on a charger for a bit before install.

You could either have problems with your starter button, key switch, and kickstand kill switch (assuming it kills the bike when in an open condition) or there is a short somewhere bypassing those and sending juice directly to the starter from the battery.

Out of curiosity was the kill switch on when all the cranking was happening?

I would lean toward the short to the starter theory for a few reasons. One, it sounds like someone did a pretty good job "fixing" a lot of the wiring already which lends itself nicely to the short idea. Second, it is unlikely all three switches mentioned above failed (four if you toss in the handlebar kill switch). Third, that would turn the bike over even though either/both the kickstand kill switch or handlebar kill switch could have the ignition shut off. Cranking without ignition would also provide a nice explanation for why the bike won't start.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:51 PM   #3
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Sounds like the wiring to the starter is shot. It might be grounding itself out somewhere, completing the circuit, which makes it crank even when the button isn't pushed.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:54 PM   #4
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The kill switch was set run.
One tidbit from yesteryear when the bike was running :
During the times it wouldn't crank using the start button I could get it to start by turning key to off, hold the start and then while holding start turn the key to on. Would start every time.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:24 PM   #5
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Turned out stuck starter solenoid. Quick whack fixed it
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:28 PM   #6
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Also took apart starter switch and cleaned it out. With the jumper cables on, cleaned out switch, brand new punched in the balls starter relay and proper key position bike behaves as it should.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:53 PM   #7
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Good, does that mean it cranks or actually starts and runs?
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:08 PM   #8
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Good, does that mean it cranks or actually starts and runs?
Haven't put the tank back on still have some reassembly to do so I'm not sure if its getting spark\fuel pump is running.

I did toss the new battery on the charger (older Diehard 2/5/50) last night until I got a green and popped it in during lunch.

Hit the start button and not enough to kick over but it sounded like an honest try. Couple of stabs at the button resulted in consistent behavior typical of a low battery.

Final test
Turn bike off and on and lights are at half intensity got a slight buzzy squeal from coils.
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:29 PM   #9
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Before you put it back together, take a good run at all the wiring. It might save you a lot of time and frustration later on.
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Before you put it back together, take a good run at all the wiring. It might save you a lot of time and frustration later on.
I've gone through starter switch, starter relay, headlight connectors, deceased kickstand switch wiring, ground point at thermostat bracket, fuel pump connector.

I've cursed at the connector for the junction box and the IC box.
Y U NO COME OFF!!!

I've also touched the housing for the clutch switch but have yet to crack it open.

Other items I've stared at but only in a "scowl...get to you if I have to kinda of way" is the ground point at the engine case (battery cable) and cable from the starter relay to the cable.


I've also ordered a Battery Tender Plus because my Die Hard 2\10\50 charger annoys me.
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