opinions on mechanical issue

[Rangerscott]

Originally Posted by No Worries

On all (older) bikes I've worked on, the wheel has to be pushed toward the front of the bike in order for the chain to be slack. That way the chain can be slipped over the sprocket. And it has to put on the same way, with the chain slack so it can slip over the sprocket. Then the chain has to be tightened and the wheel aligned.

My friend's single-sided VFR is the the only type that I know of where the chain doesn't move. I'm calling BS on the mechanic's "they also said when you take the tire off, the tire goes back by default where it was before" statement unless someone can show me that the newer bikes do go back by default.

Chain still moves on the viffers. There's a sprocket type nut that you put a special wrench on to tighten/loosen.

FSM's usually state to check/relube your chain every 250-300 miles. You're over due there. Most hooligans I see on the street have the sloppiest chains of all. WAY loose and you can see it bouncing around while theyre riding.

Hopefully this will teach you to start doing maintance work or pay the price of a mechanic. Bikes can be a lot more time consuming and more spending on than a vehicle.

Post some pics so we can actually see what you're seeing.

[playtowinthegame]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

No, it doesn't make sense.

For starters, there is no way in hell the chain "hit" the clutch push rod. The clutch push rod, is nestled deep inside the clutch basket, which is underneath the clutch cover, which is on the OPPOSITE side of the bike.

So, unless your chain jumped off the sprockets, made it's way around to the other side of the bike, borrowed a wrench from a passer by, removed the clutch cover, then jumped inside and got to whacking on the clutch, your mechanic is on glue.

Generally speaking, when shit goes horribly wrong with a drive chain, they tend to wad themselves up between the counter shaft sprocket and the engine case. When this happens, the bike usually comes to a screeching halt, and catapults your ass over the bars. The left side case would likely be leaking, and your transmission would be in a serious state of fucked.

Now, all that shit combined could "possibly" (unlikely) also cause damage to the clutch push rod, but not before it tore up all kinds of other shit on the way there.

I'm not sure your chain issue has anything to do with your clutch issue.

The easiest, and most common way to fuck up a clutch push rod, is to ride to piss out of something, and ignore the service limits of the clutch springs. When they get weak, bad shit happens...

Just out of curiosity, where was the oil you saw coming from?

JC

it was coming out from the left side of the bottom of the engine. when i pulled over, the entire back wheel was covered in oil.

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by playtowinthegame

it was coming out from the left side of the bottom of the engine. when i pulled over, the entire back wheel was covered in oil.

You, or somebody, need(s) to pull the counter shaft sprocket off, and look for cracks in the case.

JC

[Rangerscott]

Hmmm.....counter shaft seal maybe? Never seen one go though.

As stated before. ALWAYS turn off the engine if the light comes on. That light is NOT an oil level light. It is an oil pressure light. An engine can be really low on oil and still maintain oil pressure to what the sensor "thinks" is ok. My old engine in my vehicle had the light come on when we got it running from sitting for 5 years or so back when I was a kid. I didnt know that the rings would need to re-seat themselves and what not. Well coming home from school the light came on and I stopped. The damn engine was 3 quarts low and it only holds 4 quarts. Glad to say that engine lasted a long time before I retired it.

[askmrjesus]

Originally Posted by Rangerscott

Hmmm.....counter shaft seal maybe? Never seen one go though.

Could be. Improper chain/wheel alignment can put undue pressure on the seal, causing it to "self machine" and turn from round, to not quite as round.

Rare to see them just dump though. Usually they just weep to death.

JC

[Porkchop]

Originally Posted by Rangerscott

As stated before. ALWAYS turn off the engine if the light comes on. That light is NOT an oil level light. It is an oil pressure light. An engine can be really low on oil and still maintain oil pressure to what the sensor "thinks" is ok. My old engine in my vehicle had the light come on when we got it running from sitting for 5 years or so back when I was a kid. I didnt know that the rings would need to re-seat themselves and what not. Well coming home from school the light came on and I stopped. The damn engine was 3 quarts low and it only holds 4 quarts. Glad to say that engine lasted a long time before I retired it.

I need to be ultra vigilant with the 500. With it sitting for almost 2 years, and the douchebag dealer telling me I had warped rings because it was pushing out low compression. (It was not btw). I now have put about 150 miles on her in the last week, since spring has come early here in Ohio. Before riding she was full of new oil. I'll need to watch the level at the 200, 350, and 500 mile marks. At 500 they should be broken back in and I'll probably change and put fresh in.

[Rangerscott]

Not sure on moto engines but I know people mix auto tranny fluid and motor oil to do a quick cleaning.

[anthonyk]

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

No, it doesn't make sense.

For starters, there is no way in hell the chain "hit" the clutch push rod. The clutch push rod, is nestled deep inside the clutch basket, which is underneath the clutch cover, which is on the OPPOSITE side of the bike.

Even though the clutch is on the right side, I'm 99% sure the YZF600R's clutch rod is actuated from the left side of the motor, under the sprocket cover, and the chain runs really close to that clutch push rod.

Edit: this thread for adjusting the clutch play on the lower end of the cable shows what really looks like the ass end of a clutch push rod right in front of the sprocket: http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31474

[tommymac]

Originally Posted by anthonyk

Even though the clutch is on the right side, I'm 99% sure the YZF600R's clutch rod is actuated from the left side of the motor, under the sprocket cover, and the chain runs really close to that clutch push rod.

Edit: this thread for adjusting the clutch play on the lower end of the cable shows what really looks like the ass end of a clutch push rod right in front of the sprocket: http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31474

I cant speak for the yamaha motors but thats how the TL1000 motors are set up. Those motors are notorious for leaking from the clutch pushrod seal as well as from the countershaft sprocket seals. I had what may have been the push rod seal completley let go on me, and oiled up the real wheel big time. Fortunatley I was traveling straight when it happened and safely pulled to the side of the road.

[shmike]

Originally Posted by No Worries

On all (older) bikes I've worked on, the wheel has to be pushed toward the front of the bike in order for the chain to be slack. That way the chain can be slipped over the sprocket. And it has to put on the same way, with the chain slack so it can slip over the sprocket. Then the chain has to be tightened and the wheel aligned.

My friend's single-sided VFR is the the only type that I know of where the chain doesn't move. I'm calling BS on the mechanic's "they also said when you take the tire off, the tire goes back by default where it was before" statement unless someone can show me that the newer bikes do go back by default.

Once you pull the axle out, you get all the slack you need.

Same with reinstall: Push wheel to front, throw chain on, pull wheel into place (back) and slide axle in.

I can't imagine having to adjust the chain every time I did a wheel or tire swap.