Honda VFR oil cooler swap

[Rangerscott]

I'm tired of the oil and coolant cooling system on this bike so I'm gonna use my high school and some college brain to do it how the brainy acts over on the little island should have done it. I might get a raging brainer over this.


Here's the three Honda's. From top to bottom. 5th gen - 6th gen - RC51 ('00-'01)




5th gen cooler












6th gen












RC51









As you can see. The ports are a tad bigger.







GSXR 1000

[Amber Lamps]

Geez...where do you get all these spare parts? Anyway, I'm guessing you're going to fab the superior Suzuki part to your Honda. It looks pretty simple to me. Do the lines from the GSXR fit your bike?

[Rangerscott]

Originally Posted by Amber Lamps

Geez...where do you get all these spare parts? Anyway, I'm guessing you're going to fab the superior Suzuki part to your Honda. It looks pretty simple to me. Do the lines from the GSXR fit your bike?

I'll be using the RC51. The GSXR is a last resort. Also if would probably cool too much in the winter.


The cool thing about lines is you see where the crimp is. You can actually cut that off and reveal a nipple where the hose slide onto.

[Gas Man]

I don't think running too much rad area is really a problem... come on

[Rangerscott]

Originally Posted by Gas Man

I don't think running too much rad area is really a problem... come on

Not for an air cooled sissy bike like yours. The main problem is the side rads. The weird is it runs like every vfr in the summer. 180's on the highway and in the 200's in traffic or slow riding, but in the winter it has a hard time keeping 170F on the highway. I've changed the T-stat and even block 1 rad, but barely keeps it in the "warm" range. I'll defiantly have to block oil rad now.

[Rangerscott]

Got her done.

Loosened the stock cooler and let it hang.






I was hoping I wouldn't but I had to drain the oil. I tried using an 8mm wrench, but the bolt started stripping. Had to get a socket on them.






Once the oil drains, then you can unbolt the oil lines from the engine.

Left side.





Right side.






Luckily the O-rings look brand new. Not even smashed.






Might as well wash the lines. Just tiny spot rust here and there. Maybe I'll order new ones or have them powder coated.

[Rangerscott]

Time to temporary mount the RC cooler.






The mount on the cooler is more offset than the stock one. It'll be a little closer to the right rad.




Here's the fun tedious fun part. Bending the lines to fit. You'll be pulling them out and putting back multiple times. The right one I used a rubber mallet. I placed the right oil line on the ground with the cooler mount upward. I smacked it down with the mallet. No science there.






The left side you have to twist the oil cooler line where it bolts to the cooler. I used a pair of pliers and my manly strength. Of course a vise would have made it easier.




Once they're lined up as good as possible, get the engine side ready.






The middle o-ring is what I used. I also used one smaller one to fit inside that one. Double the sealing. LOL





Bolt the oil cooler lines on first, then bolt the cooler to it's brackets second, and last bolt the engine side of the oil lines.








The right side does have a slight problem. Since the line is lowered from the oil rad being taller.




The left side has no problem with hitting anything.

[Rangerscott]

Here's what a high pressure line looks like when you cut the crimp off.

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,88319.0.html

[6doublefive321]

Just curious... what made you think that the Jap engineers don't know how to design cooling systems?

[Gas Man]

So why are you swapping again?