DDM HID install GENII Busa

[RACER X]

so i got around to installing my HID's

thanks to this thread, it was alot easier

http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii...l-removal.html

thanks fella;s

TRY AN AVOID TOUCHING THE ACTUAL BULB!

this is to show basically the entire kit.
your going to eventually cut the clear plastic over the bulb itself and discard it.
i ended up cutting the plastic grommet that held all the wires.
i also cut off some black piece that is show in pic #6
The red and black spades plug into the OE harness. Red - WHITE in the OE harness and Black - BLACK in the OE

everything else pretty much plugs into itself.



to show how small the ballast is





i put everything on the right side, the left has fuses and such



i ended up routing the wiring thru this spot



I also ended up cutting this piece out too, not sure whats is for.



i ended up cutting this grommet thingy out as it prevent the dust cover from closing completely.



this is all you really need coming out of the dust cover (the red and black spades that plug into the OE harness) , i ended up shoving that rubber grommet i cut off, inside the outer tip of this cover to try and keep some water out.



ended up using the double sided tape to hold down the ballast and ignitor (the smaller black box) have an assortment of zip ties ZIC



plug everything together , zip tie as much as possibe.



its really an easy job and if your in town i'd help you put it together. i would say really about an 1/2 hr job. plan ahead. cuz i had to cut alot of elec tape that i had around the OE harness of a few times cuz i found a better path




only shot i have as its raining now, and i also cleaned up my bike

hope this helps

DDM Tuning - HID Kits, HID Bulbs, DEPO Lighting, BMW and Porsche Performance Accessories
$54 delivered
35w 5000k

[Amber Lamps]

Umm actually, you're supposed to paddle bit a hole in the cover, put the bulb in and use grommet to plug the hole... at least that's the way it was on mine. The inside of the grommet had the bulb and the two leads that go to the stock harness/bulb plug. The stupid black piece is supposed to be broken off, I think that it's used in some applications or heck, it just might be a stand/protector for the bulb. Anyway, I'm glad that you got it working alright for you!!!

For the money, I really don't think that you can go wrong with the DDM set-up. I tried to turn these guys on to them a long time ago but no luck... $54 is stupid cheap for HIDs!

[RACER X]

nope considering there a decent outfit shipping wise, got em 4 days vs 2 weeks last time.

if they last 1 yr for $54 its worth it........let alone the whole lifetime warranty.

[marko138]

Gas Man and I just hooked up my HID on Thursday. It looks awesome. Really helps with the shitty stock Buell headlight too. We wired up a relay, I still may do a timer delay too.

What color temp is yours?

[RACER X]

5000

[Trip]

I suggest a timer delay or a switch to keep the ballasts from firing as soon as you turn on the key if your lights turn on before the bike starts. Sport bike batteries can't handle the amperage it takes to fire a ballast with the electrical system off, it kills batteries extremely fast.

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Trip

I suggest a timer delay or a switch to keep the ballasts from firing as soon as you turn on the key if your lights turn on before the bike starts. Sport bike batteries can't handle the amperage it takes to fire a ballast with the electrical system off, it kills batteries extremely fast.

There's that second box in the harness from DDM... For what it's worth, I've had HIDs for well over a year without any problems battery wise...

[Trip]

Originally Posted by TIGGER

There's that second box in the harness from DDM... For what it's worth, I've had HIDs for well over a year without any problems battery wise...

That's about when I started having issues with my battery. You can either get a $30 relay or a new battery your choice. I am just an electrical engineer, what do I know about current flow...

[Amber Lamps]

Originally Posted by Trip

That's about when I started having issues with my battery. You can either get a $30 relay or a new battery your choice. I am just an electrical engineer, what do I know about current flow...

Well, Mr Engineer... It's a well know fact that HID, florescent, etc lights require LESS current. That's why all the tree huggers want us to change to them! I mean he has a 35 watt system which means that it uses 35 watts right? What size bulb did he take out? Hmmm...55 watts, right? So which uses MORE power? I will ALWAYS admit that most of you here have more education than me BUT I have way more hands on experience than most on this site, so nyah!!! Besides, some of the old systems were using inferior ballasts which caused lots of problems including battery issues... Quite frankly, even if HID ballasts drew DOUBLE the current of stock bulbs, I don't see how having it on for 5 seconds before you start your bike... Not to mention that almost all motorcycle electrical systems cut power to the headlights during startup. Lastly, do you also believe that if you start your bike with the light set to "high" you'll ruin your battery? Shit back in the day we all used to run 100 watt bulbs in our bikes...

Clipped from Wiki....pertinent information is in bold.


HID stands for high-intensity discharge, a technical term for the electric arc that produces the light. The high intensity of the arc comes from metallic salts that are vapourised within the arc chamber. These lamps are formally known as gas-discharge burners, and produce more light for a given level of power consumption than ordinary tungsten and tungsten-halogen bulbs. Because of the increased amounts of light available from HID burners relative to halogen bulbs, HID headlamps producing a given beam pattern can be made smaller than halogen headlamps producing a comparable beam pattern. Alternatively, the larger size can be retained, in which case the xenon headlamp can produce a more robust beam pattern.

Automotive HID lamps are commonly called 'xenon headlamps', though they are actually metal halide lamps that contain xenon gas. The xenon gas allows the lamps to produce minimally adequate light immediately upon powerup, and accelerates the lamps' run-up time. If argon were used instead, as is commonly done in street lights and other stationary metal halide lamp applications, it would take several minutes for the lamps to reach their full output. The light from HID headlamps has a distinct bluish tint when compared with tungsten-filament headlamps. [21]
[edit] History

Xenon headlamps were introduced in 1991 as an option on the BMW 7-series. This first system used an unshielded, non-replaceable burner designated D1 — a designation that would be recycled years later for a wholly different type of burner. The AC ballast was about the size of a building brick. The first American-made effort at HID headlamps was on the 1996-98 Lincoln Mark VIII, which used reflector headlamps with an unmasked, integral-ignitor burner made by Sylvania and designated Type 9500. This was the only system to operate on DC; reliability proved inferior to the AC systems. The Type 9500 system was not used on any other models, and was discontinued after Osram's takeover of Sylvania. All HID headlamps worldwide presently use the standardised AC-operated bulbs and ballasts.
[edit] Burner and ballast operation

HID headlamp bulbs do not run on low-voltage DC current, so they require a ballast with either an internal or external ignitor. The ignitor is integrated into the bulb in D1 and D3 systems, and is either a separate unit or integral with the electronic ballast in D2 and D4 systems. The ballast controls the current to the bulb. The ignition and ballast operation proceeds in three stages:

1. Ignition: a high voltage pulse is used to produce a spark — in a manner similar to a spark plug – which ionises the Xenon gas, creating a conducting tunnel between the tungsten electrodes. In this tunnel, the electrical resistance is reduced and current flows between the electrodes.
2. Initial phase: the bulb is driven with controlled overload. Because the arc is operated at high power, the temperature in the capsule rises quickly. The metallic salts vapourise, and the arc is intensified and made spectrally more complete. The resistance between the electrodes also falls; the electronic ballast control gear registers this and automatically switches to continuous operation.
3. Continuous operation: all metal salts are in the vapour phase, the arc has attained its stable shape, and the luminous efficacy has attained its nominal value. The ballast now supplies stable electrical power so the arc will not flicker.

Stable operating voltage is 85 volts AC in D1 and D2 systems, 42 volts AC in D3 and D4 systems. The frequency of the square-wave alternating current is typically 400 hertz or higher.
[edit] Burner types

HID headlamp burners produce between 2,800 and 3,500 lumens from between 35 and 38 watts of electrical power, while halogen filament headlamp bulbs produce between 700 and 2,100 lumens from between 40 and 72 watts at 12.8 V.[22][23][24]

Current-production burner categories are D1S, D1R, D2S, D2R, D3S, D3R, D4S, and D4R. The D stands for discharge, and the number is the type designator. The final letter describes the outer shield. The arc within an HID headlamp bulb generates considerable short-wave ultraviolet (UV) light, but none of it escapes the bulb, for a UV-absorbing hard glass shield is incorporated around the bulb's arc tube. This is important to prevent degradation of UV-sensitive components and materials in headlamps, such as polycarbonate lenses and reflector hardcoats. "S" burners — D1S, D2S, D3S, and D4S — have a plain glass shield and are primarily used in projector-type optics. "R" burners — D1R, D2R, D3R, and D4R — are designed for use in reflector-type headlamp optics. They have an opaque mask covering specific portions of the shield, which facilitates the optical creation of the light/dark boundary (cutoff) near the top of a low-beam light distribution. Automotive HID burners do emit considerable near-UV light, despite the shield.
[edit] Colour

The correlated colour temperature of HID headlamp bulbs, at between 4100K and 4400K, is often described in marketing literature as being closer to the 6500K of sunlight compared with tungsten-halogen bulbs at 3000K to 3550K. Nevertheless, HID headlamps' light output is not similar to daylight. The spectral power distribution (SPD) of an automotive HID headlamp is discontinuous, while the SPD of a filament lamp, like that of the sun, is a continuous curve. Moreover, the colour rendering index (CRI) of tungsten-halogen headlamps (≥0.98) is much closer than that of HID headlamps (~0.75) to standardised sunlight (1.00). Studies have shown no significant safety effect of this degree of CRI variation in headlighting.[25][26][27][28]
[edit] Advantages
[edit] Increased safety

The HID headlamp light sources (bulbs) offer substantially greater luminance and luminous flux than halogen bulbs — about 3000 lumens and 90 mcd/m2 versus 1400 lumens and 30 mcd/m2. If the higher-output HID light source is used in a well-engineered headlamp optic, the driver gets more usable light. Studies have demonstrated drivers react faster and more accurately to roadway obstacles with good HID headlamps rather than halogen ones.[29] Hence, good HID headlamps contribute to driving safety.[30]
[edit] Efficacy and output

HID burners give higher efficacy (produce more light from less power) than halogen bulbs. The highest-intensity halogen headlamp bulbs, H9 and HIR1, produce 2100 to 2530 lumens from approximately 70 watts at 13.2 volts. A D2S HID burner produces 3200 lumens from approximately 42 watts during stable operation.[22] The reduced power consumption means less fuel consumption, with resultant less CO2 emission per vehicle fitted with HID lighting (1.3 g/km assuming that 30% of engine running time is with the lights on).
[edit] Longevity

The average service life of an HID lamp is 2000 hours, compared to between 450 and 1000 hours for a halogen lamp.[31]
[edit] Disadvantages
[edit] Glare

Vehicles equipped with HID headlamps are required by ECE regulation 48 also to be equipped with headlamp lens cleaning systems and automatic beam levelling control. Both of these measures are intended to reduce the tendency for high-output headlamps to cause high levels of glare to other road users. In North America, ECE R48 does not apply and while lens cleaners and beam levellers are permitted, they are not required;[32] HID headlamps are markedly less prevalent in the US, where they have produced significant glare complaints.[33] Scientific study of headlamp glare has shown that for any given intensity level, the light from HID headlamps is 40% more glaring than the light from tungsten-halogen headlamps.[34]
[edit] Mercury content

HID headlamp bulb types D1R, D1S, D2R, D2S and 9500 contain the toxic heavy metal mercury. The disposal of mercury-containing vehicle parts is increasingly regulated throughout the world, for example under US EPA regulations. Newer HID bulb designs D3R, D3S, D4R, and D4S which are in production since 2004 contain no mercury,[35][36] but are not electrically or physically compatible with headlamps designed for previous bulb types.
[edit] Lack of backward-compatibility

The arc light source in an HID headlamp is fundamentally different in size, shape, orientation, and luminosity distribution compared to the filament light source used in tungsten-halogen headlamps. For that reason, HID-specific optics are used to collect and distribute the light. HID burners cannot effectively or safely be installed in optics designed to take filament bulbs; doing so results in improperly-focused beam patterns and excessive glare, and is therefore illegal in almost all countries.[37]
[edit] Cost

HID headlamps are significantly more costly to produce, install, purchase, and repair. The extra cost of the HID lights may exceed the fuel cost savings through their reduced power consumption, though some of this cost disadvantage is offset by the longer lifespan of the HID burner relative to halogen bulbs.

[marko138]

I wired up a relay to save my stock wiring. And it puts a noticable draw on the electricle system. And my battery was getting weak to begin with.