changing oil/filter

jalaan1 · 03-29-2008, 11:37 AM

hey guys,
this going to be my first time changing the oil and filter on my bike myself.
just a couple ?s

-should i go to a stealership and order an OEM filter and oil?
or do you guys recommend any particular online place.
-do you guys recommend any particular type/brand oil?
- i don't have stands for the bike, should that be a problem?
( i'm thinking not

)

TIA

Cutty72 · 03-29-2008, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jalaan1

hey guys,
this going to be my first time changing the oil and filter on my bike myself.
just a couple ?s

-should i go to a stealership and order an OEM filter and oil?
or do you guys recommend any particular online place.
-do you guys recommend any particular type/brand oil?
- i don't have stands for the bike, should that be a problem?
( i'm thinking not

)

TIA

I have always used OEM filters on my bikes... Just a personal preferance, and I buy oil at the same time.
Stands are not necessary to change the oil, just make it easier. When you drain the oil, just be sure to stand it straight up for a bit to get all the oil out (depending on where your drain plug is)

Gas Man · 03-29-2008, 03:28 PM

You can also get fram bike filters at the auto stores. Murrays auto around here also sells some MC oil.

marko138 · 03-29-2008, 04:13 PM

I use K&N filters. A little pricey...and I've used the fram's...and used OEM filters. They are all with in a few buck of each other. I use Repsol 10W40 synth blend. I buy it from www.sportbiketrackgear.com

No Worries · 03-29-2008, 08:22 PM

Read this: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Con...tml#OilFilters and make your own decision. I use the long Purolator Pure One filter on the CBR and GTX oil. But I have heard good things about Shell Rotella.

dReWpY · 03-29-2008, 08:27 PM

amsoil and kn filter

NONE_too_SOFT · 03-29-2008, 08:37 PM

just put a k&n on... as far as oil brands go, eh, just change em every few thousand miles and you're money.

WARputer · 03-29-2008, 09:03 PM

K&N here too ....with any good synthetic .

PhiSig1071 · 03-29-2008, 09:26 PM

Stands do make it easier, but as long as you remember to stand the bike up to drain out all the oil then you'll be fine.

Get a K&N! Sportbike oil filters go on tight, if you've changed the oil in your car then you know you usually spin it on til it makes contact then tighten it a quarter to half turn (and it can still be a bitch to get off). Sportbike filters usually go on until they make contact then two complete turns to tighten, so you might not be able to get it off without stabbing it with a screwdriver. The K&N has a nut (kinda) at the end of the filter which makes it easier to get it on or off, especially after it's been on there a while and it's tight.

I have used Castrol Act-Evo non-syn (20k plus miles with no problems), Castrol R-4 Superbike full synthetic (handful of trackdays with no problems) and Mobil 1 full syn with great success. I have also heard very good things about Rotella-T full synthetic, which is a car oil. You can use car oil in a bike, just make absolutely sure it does not have "friction modifiers" such as molybendium in it, they bind to clutch plates and cause slippage. Generally if it says "with energy saving additives" you can't use it. For the slight difference in price I recommend using motorcycle specific fully synthetic oil.

A couple general things, (this is what I do) run the bike and get the oil hot, then allow it to cool until it is only slightly warm, then drain the oil. This is because the oil passages in a motorcycle are very small, if you start the bike and get the oil a little warm then there will be oil in the passages when you try to drain it. If you get it hot, then let it sit, it'll still be warm and drain easily, and there will be enough time for it to drain out of the head. Also make sure you put something on the mid-pipes (newspaper works great) or oil will get on them when you take off the filter. Some oil will still get on the mid-pipes, so the bike will smoke a little when you start it. Also, put in the required amount of oil in the bike, run it for a minute or two, then check the oil level as recommended by the owners manual. This will give the oil time to circulate into the oil passages in the head. If I can think of anything else I'll post it up.

Good Luck!

NONE_too_SOFT · 03-29-2008, 09:36 PM

pretty right on. some bikes actually recommend you put the bike on its kickstand to drain because of the location of the plug. basically just be patient and give her time to drain.

after its drained, check your oil for debris, it may indicated abnormal engine wear. metal shavings, or anything else that looks odd.

and check your OM, because some plugs require you replace the o-ring after each change to ensure a proper seal.

03-29-2008, 11:37 AM	#1
jalaan1 orangina Zed Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: LI, NY Moto: '12 Z1000 Posts: 700	changing oil/filter hey guys, this going to be my first time changing the oil and filter on my bike myself. just a couple ?s -should i go to a stealership and order an OEM filter and oil? or do you guys recommend any particular online place. -do you guys recommend any particular type/brand oil? - i don't have stands for the bike, should that be a problem? ( i'm thinking not ) TIA __________________

03-29-2008, 03:28 PM	#3
Gas Man Trip's Assistant Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Imported from Detroit Moto: 2009 HD Street Classic Posts: 12,149	You can also get fram bike filters at the auto stores. Murrays auto around here also sells some MC oil. __________________ -Chris "Why pay somebody else to fuck up your bike?" Run Amsoil Product

03-29-2008, 09:03 PM	#8
WARputer WERA Yellow Plate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lake Murray, South Carolina Moto: 2005 Hayabusa Posts: 625	K&N here too ....with any good synthetic . __________________ Chris

03-29-2008, 08:22 PM	#5
No Worries Keyboard Racer Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mile High City Moto: Old Superbikes Posts: 1,016	Read this: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Con...tml#OilFilters and make your own decision. I use the long Purolator Pure One filter on the CBR and GTX oil. But I have heard good things about Shell Rotella.

03-29-2008, 08:37 PM	#7
NONE_too_SOFT Chopstix / \ Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Akron OH Moto: 03 CBR RR Posts: 5,350	just put a k&n on... as far as oil brands go, eh, just change em every few thousand miles and you're money.

03-29-2008, 09:26 PM	#9
PhiSig1071 Let go of my ears. Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Jacksonville, FL Moto: '03 GSX-R600, '04 625SMC Posts: 1,394	Stands do make it easier, but as long as you remember to stand the bike up to drain out all the oil then you'll be fine. Get a K&N! Sportbike oil filters go on tight, if you've changed the oil in your car then you know you usually spin it on til it makes contact then tighten it a quarter to half turn (and it can still be a bitch to get off). Sportbike filters usually go on until they make contact then two complete turns to tighten, so you might not be able to get it off without stabbing it with a screwdriver. The K&N has a nut (kinda) at the end of the filter which makes it easier to get it on or off, especially after it's been on there a while and it's tight. I have used Castrol Act-Evo non-syn (20k plus miles with no problems), Castrol R-4 Superbike full synthetic (handful of trackdays with no problems) and Mobil 1 full syn with great success. I have also heard very good things about Rotella-T full synthetic, which is a car oil. You can use car oil in a bike, just make absolutely sure it does not have "friction modifiers" such as molybendium in it, they bind to clutch plates and cause slippage. Generally if it says "with energy saving additives" you can't use it. For the slight difference in price I recommend using motorcycle specific fully synthetic oil. A couple general things, (this is what I do) run the bike and get the oil hot, then allow it to cool until it is only slightly warm, then drain the oil. This is because the oil passages in a motorcycle are very small, if you start the bike and get the oil a little warm then there will be oil in the passages when you try to drain it. If you get it hot, then let it sit, it'll still be warm and drain easily, and there will be enough time for it to drain out of the head. Also make sure you put something on the mid-pipes (newspaper works great) or oil will get on them when you take off the filter. Some oil will still get on the mid-pipes, so the bike will smoke a little when you start it. Also, put in the required amount of oil in the bike, run it for a minute or two, then check the oil level as recommended by the owners manual. This will give the oil time to circulate into the oil passages in the head. If I can think of anything else I'll post it up. Good Luck!

03-29-2008, 09:36 PM	#10
NONE_too_SOFT Chopstix / \ Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Akron OH Moto: 03 CBR RR Posts: 5,350	pretty right on. some bikes actually recommend you put the bike on its kickstand to drain because of the location of the plug. basically just be patient and give her time to drain. after its drained, check your oil for debris, it may indicated abnormal engine wear. metal shavings, or anything else that looks odd. and check your OM, because some plugs require you replace the o-ring after each change to ensure a proper seal.