Bike loses all power - Page 3

Smittie61984 · 10-08-2010, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Particle Man

So was the relay bad or not?

I don't know. All signs from before point to yes. When I tested the battery last time it had 12Vs and a great battery load test. I'm going to put the old one in later to see if it is for sure the problem.

Regardless the bike is running! I'm going to hit the twisties on Sunday!

Particle Man · 10-08-2010, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smittie61984

I don't know. All signs from before point to yes. When I tested the battery last time it had 12Vs and a great battery load test. I'm going to put the old one in later to see if it is for sure the problem.

Regardless the bike is running! I'm going to hit the twisties on Sunday!

Sweeeet. Just curious but the end result is the important part!

RedRider2k2 · 10-09-2010, 01:17 AM

I'm guessing the battery just died after sitting for a while (Especially after a load test) and the relay was bad.

No Worries · 10-09-2010, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smittie61984

...Appreciate the info. Now going to find someone who knows how to use an ohmmeter and make them start touching shit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smittie61984

I don't know. All signs from before point to yes. When I tested the battery last time it had 12Vs and a great battery load test. I'm going to put the old one in later to see if it is for sure the problem.

Regardless the bike is running! I'm going to hit the twisties on Sunday!

Hey, even motorcycle techs aren't comfortable with electrical problems. And they can replace an electrical part with a new one. If it still doesn't work they can put it back on the shelf. If we buy an electrical part, it can't be returned.

But there are only three categories of wiring problems: Opens, shorts, and grounds. Basically, an open is when something doesn't work. Such as a broken wire, loose or corroded connector, or a faulty switch. As I read it, you still don't know if your new battery is being charged by the R/R.

So if you have a digital voltmeter, all you need to know is the volts and resistance sections. With the correct wires of the voltmeter hooked to the battery terminals, read the volts (20 scale). Should read above 12.5. Start the engine and rev above 5K. Should read above 13.5. If it doesn't, you have a short.

The resistance section of the voltmeter will tell you if you have continuity between wires and connectors, between the R/R and battery, between the R/R and ground, and between the stator and R/R. It will also tell you if the R/R, and the stator are working correctly. Refer to your manual for the correct testing procedure.

By the way, did you charge up the new battery for 24 hours or so? The bike's stator doesn't have enough juice to do this.

10-09-2010, 01:17 AM	#23
RedRider2k2 Holier Than Thou Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: N.B, Canada Moto: 06 ZX10R, 18 400 Ninja, 11 KLX250s Posts: 463	I'm guessing the battery just died after sitting for a while (Especially after a load test) and the relay was bad. __________________ Good judgement is the product of experience...Experience is the product of bad judgement. Sometimes The Faster It Gets, The Less You Need To Know. But You Gotta Remember The Smarter It Gets, The Furthur It's Gonna Go.