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#1 |
They call me a ride whore
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mills River, NC
Moto: 2004 CBR 600 F4i
Posts: 353
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Yup, finally changed out my steering head bearings today. It was actually alot easier than I thought it would be! I didn't take nearly enough details pics to write up a how-to (sorry!), but I did snap a few along the way. This is the poor mans method, lol... I didn't have any of the "proper" tools (special socket, bearing/race drivers, hydraulic press, stands, etc), so I had to improvise, hahah
Improvision #1... all I had was a rear stand. If I tried to jack the front up with my floor jack under the headers, it would just tip over off the stand (of course I caught it before that actually happened). So I strapped it down to the stand ![]() Then I fiddled with the jack some more and finally found a good balance point on the headers where it would go up straight ![]() Take apart everything up top ![]() Then pull it all out the bottom ![]() Spare parts aside ![]() Improvision #2 - didn't have the bearing race removers, so a long flathead screwdriver and a BFH had to suffice ![]() Improvision #3 - didn't have the race installers, so I used the old races flipped backwards to pound in the new ones. Worked like a champ! Lower ![]() Upper ![]() It's nice they give you some little indents on both sides to be able to get a screwdriver on the races to pound them out ![]() Old bearings VS new bearings. The OEM ones are roller ball bearings, where as the new ones I'm using are tapered roller bearings from AllBalls ![]() ![]() Can't forget the lube!! Put plenty of grease in the new bearings ![]() Improvision #4 - didn't have any bearing drivers, so once again one of the old races fit perfectly to drive it down. I had this piece of pipe, but it wasn't long enough to hit with a hammer (although manual says to use a hydraulic press), so I had to use the weight of the pipe itself as a slide hammer to bang the bearing down ![]() Took a few good smacks, but worked perfectly! ![]() Gotta grease up the new races with plenty of grease too ![]() This is the bearing preload adjuster nut... the one I didn't have the socket for. Usually you could use a screwdriver and hammer, but it must be torqued properly so I needed some way to get a torque wrench on it ![]() Improvision #5 - I made this! It's just the lil spanner wrench that came in my tool kit for the rear shock. I cut a 3/8" square hole in the handle exactly 2 inches from the center point of the adjuster nut ![]() Used the equation (ACTUAL = INDICATED x (WRENCH LENGTH + EXT. LENGTH) / WRENCH LENGTH). Found that my torque values went from 216 in. lbs down to 175 in. lbs. Worked like a champ! ![]() Then reinstall forks ![]() Snug everything up ![]()
__________________
-Jared Black/Red '04 CBR 600 F4i - 253,500 miles and counting Black '89 Accord LX-i sedan - 435,200 miles still going strong States visited on my F4i ![]() facebook.com/thirdgenlxi |
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