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Old 05-22-2010, 11:23 AM   #11
Dave
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Originally Posted by Phenix_Rider View Post
Yeah, that sounds like fun. I have to go to a cousin's thing at Villanova this morning, but I'll head over your way this afternoon. Text or PM me your address.

I'm halfway looking for a place to set up my shock if I ever get it mounted. And to tune my PCIII if I ever find the money to dyno it. Speedwerkes is pretty far down there. I'd be tempted to ride all the way down to Pocomoke if I made that trip. Would love to go demo a Fischer.
De is closer than you think. Quick blast down 95
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:50 PM   #12
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Yeah a lot of guys will deny this, but lowered bikes suck for handling. Not to mention they've got less ground clearance.

How was it lowered, was it simply the forks, or did it have an aftermarket link on the rear shock as well?

I would still take it to the tuner, because the geometry has totally changed now that you've raised it. For him to adjust the preload, clickers, and fork height should only cost $50-60 anyway, right?
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:11 PM   #13
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Yea you might want to adjust that but remember that the suspension was set up for weight and shouldn't be too affected IMHO. Didn't you also go to a 17 " front wheel?
There were issues whith that wheel
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:17 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Homeslice View Post
Yeah a lot of guys will deny this, but lowered bikes suck for handling. Not to mention they've got less ground clearance.

How was it lowered, was it simply the forks, or did it have an aftermarket link on the rear shock as well?

I would still take it to the tuner, because the geometry has totally changed now that you've raised it. For him to adjust the preload, clickers, and fork height should only cost $50-60 anyway, right?
The bike handled fine, but it took some muscle to move it around. It was lowered by flipping the suspension link plates around, also the front wassnt lowered
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:48 PM   #15
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Hmm, if rear was lowered and the front wasn't, that would explain why it turned in so slow. You should definitely take it back to the tuner, because now you've put more weight on the front end. It will probably need more preload in front to compensate. Better to take it to someone who will make measurements of what needs to be done.
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:34 PM   #16
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De is closer than you think. Quick blast down 95
Oh, I know DE is close. I've only been through it a hundred times lately. Speedwerkes is 1.5 hours, and Fischer is only about an hour past that.

On my way to your place. Just mapping out my route now.
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:07 PM   #17
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Buy this book and have a friend help you set up the suspension. I need to find my copy and have my brother help me with the Strom

http://www.amazon.com/Sportbike-Perf...4555150&sr=8-1
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Old 05-22-2010, 06:26 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Homeslice View Post
Hmm, if rear was lowered and the front wasn't, that would explain why it turned in so slow. You should definitely take it back to the tuner, because now you've put more weight on the front end. It will probably need more preload in front to compensate. Better to take it to someone who will make measurements of what needs to be done.
Yup, more preload on the front and less on the rear. I had a situation once where the ride height adjustment on my shock somehow backed all the way down, and I had similar handling issues. After the suspension guy figured that out, he had to go back and make some other adjustments for the new weight distribution. Might have just been preload, but he might have changed compression and rebound damping, too.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:49 PM   #19
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Sport Rider Magazine has suggested suspension settings for every bike they've tested since '96. Here's what they suggest for a CBR900: http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/honda.html That should put you in the ballpark.
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Old 05-22-2010, 10:11 PM   #20
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Sport Rider Magazine has suggested suspension settings for every bike they've tested since '96. Here's what they suggest for a CBR900: http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/honda.html That should put you in the ballpark.
Nice link. Wish they had something for the strom, but they only mention front pre-load and front damping. Don't have any numbers for any other settings.
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