1125 Valve check

[Cutty72]

Ok, here it is finally.
I realize going through the pictures, that I did ok with them on the dis-assembly, but sucked ass while reassembling. Guess you will just have to remember how I/you took it apart!

Start with a complete 1125R





Add in a couple helpers



And let the project begin.

Start by removing all the plastics. If you can't do this on your own, just take it to the dealer...





Left side, closer



Right side, closer



I took pics of how all the wiring was run, so I could be sure to put it back the same. It's pretty simple, all the wires have different connectors so it is virtually impossible to hook something back up incorrectly.

[derf]

looks like it sucks

[Cutty72]

Originally Posted by derf

looks like it sucks

Not nearly as bad as I thought going in. And WAY easier than writing a $1000+ check to the dealer to do it! (probably wrong/half assed anyway)

[tommymac]

Good stuff, I am sure my 5 little helpers would sleep through the entire project and just bug me to feed them

Thats nice you can keep the front end all together, that will def save me soem time. Just wondering if I should do the bearrings then, if I need to, or make that another project. Theres a fair amt of room up front so i think I can do them without taking the body work off.

[Cutty72]

Originally Posted by tommymac

Good stuff, I am sure my 5 little helpers would sleep through the entire project and just bug me to feed them

Thats nice you can keep the front end all together, that will def save me soem time. Just wondering if I should do the bearrings then, if I need to, or make that another project. Theres a fair amt of room up front so i think I can do them without taking the body work off.

You realize that it is only 4 nuts (the mirrors) and 2 bolts to remove the front fairing right?

If you split it like I did, it would probably be easier to do the bearings after it's back together. At least frame connected to engine.

[No Worries]

I'm impressed.

[tommymac]

Originally Posted by Cutty72

You realize that it is only 4 nuts (the mirrors) and 2 bolts to remove the front fairing right?

If you split it like I did, it would probably be easier to do the bearings after it's back together. At least frame connected to engine.

thats what I am thinking. I red up on the job in the manual. Seems they want you to use a special tool to compress the bearings into the frame head. On the futura you had to bang out the races and pry the bearring off the lower triple. All in all an easy job, but had to pull off way too much shit on the aprilia. If I get the triumph back sooner as opposed to later I may give it a go on a day off.

[Cutty72]

Next, start the bike, disconnect the fuel pump while running to drain the fuel rail. After it dies, crank it again for a couple seconds to be sure.



After you are done cranking the bike, put rags in the intake to prevent anything from being dropped in them.
Then, disconnect the fuel rail, be sure to plug/cap the lines so no shit gets in them.



Disconnect the throttle cables.



Disconnect all the other wiring. Horn wires, O2 sensors, speed sensor, main ECM cable, clutch cable, rear brake line...

By this point, my assistants were getting rather bored...



Next, remove the muffler and set aside. Then position a floor jack under the engine to support it.



Also at this time, position whatever it is you are going to support the front end/frame with.

Then, remove the 7 bolts connecting the frame/tank to the engine (yes, just 7) 1. Shock to swingarm 2 & 3 front K brackets to front of engine (radiators must be loose to get to them) 4 & 5 Rear area of frame/tank 6 & 7 Further up, on the right side there is a pinch bolt that must be loosened first.
Once all the bolts are removed, start lifting the frame SLOWLY to ensure that all the wiring has been disconnected properly.

[Cutty72]

VIOLA, you now have 2 half bikes!





While I had it apart, I applied heat tape to the inside of the frame/tank. Not sure if it will help, but it can't hurt anything.





Remove the stator puck and plug, this is how you will rotate the engine.



Then, remove the heads and start the valve check/adjustment per the manual.



Loosen the plugs, but leave them in place as this will prevent you from accidentally dropping anything into the engine.
I had good luck using a magnet tool to remove and replace the shims. Wipe them off with a rag first to remove the oil "seal" that holds them in place and they come right out. Measure with a micrometer or a caliper to get proper size of the old, and replace with the new using the formula in manual.
All of mine were on the edge of in spec tight, or out of spec tight.
Now they are all in spec mid to loose.

[Cutty72]

And here are the tools I used to complete the job.



Feeler gauge
spark plug wrench/socket
Caliper
Rubber mallet
small flat tip screwdriver
large flat tip screwdriver
T30 driver
T40 driver
4mm allen
5mm allen
6mm allen
8mm allen
4mm allen L shape
snap ring pliers
side cutter
8mm wrench
10mm wrench
13mm wrench
14mm wrench
magnet tool
needle nose pliers
channel lock pliers
ratchet w/ extension
8mm socket
17mm socket
mity vac (or your favorite way to bleed brakes/clutch)
turkey baster
Dot 4 brake fluid
Shim kit (10mm o.d.)
Coolant (optional)
rags
Oil and filter

And the most important



The manual.